Walking the Bulgarian Coast
My first three days of walking through Bulgaria has been very interesting and very tough at times. I have now managed about 80km along the highways, beaches, bushes and gravel roads.
Let start with my gear Im carrying… Tent, sleeping bag, mattress, poncho, cooking stuff, one extra pair underwear & T-shirt, camera & lens and camel bag. This has been heavier than I thought, but I think my duffle bag Im walking with is not made to walk long distances. O well, Im using what I have available.
My first day was a long one and most of it was on the highway (which mean boring). I finally would a small dirt road after 25km and could reach the beach. This has not been the most beautiful beach I’ve seen, but was just happy to get off the highway. I walked past three couples in the 3km stretch on the beach… The first ones was taking things out of their car, the second couple was doing the dirty dirty on some inflatable water toy and the last couple was walking naked as the guy was fishing and the lady was tanning. Quite an introduction onto the first bit of beach on Bulgaria… but little did I know what was still to come.
I reached my first town where I picked up some rice & water, took a short rest and then headed to the beach again. I was starting to get tired as I was close to 30km for the day. Just after all the houses the beach started and then… as far as I could see I saw caravans. My first impression was that it cant really continue to the other side of the bay (but it looked as if it was). After about 3km of caravans I decided to call it a day and found a small forest where it looked like a nice spot for the night.
It was now time to make the rice… my first cook on the fuel stove. I did everything according to what I’ve read but when I light it up it did not look like it! Wooop!!! Then there was just one huge fire! I grabbed my shoes and start hitting. The dry leaves did not help the whole process. I killed the flame after I almost burned down the whole forrest. Then I cooked my rice, but I had much much better rice in my life. At least my stomach was full and I well asleep like a little baby.
The scenery of the second day started off good as I was approaching Sozopol. This little town was very busy, but first I had to get water!! It was warm as hell and I was sweating like a racing horse. I downed the first 1,5l and then was looking for a pub or restaurant where I can sit down and check my things on the internet. It was a beautiful day and this city was just as nice. Small town consist out of two parts, the old town and new town. I headed to the old town and found a nice pub on the beach. I slowly sipped my Coca Cola as I did what I had to on the internet. Out of the sudden it became cloudy and within 15 minutes there was a thunderstorm. Man was it raining!! The pub was starting to flood as the thunder got more impressive by the minute. The storm continued for about 45 minutes and then the heavens opened up again 🙂 and then it was the beautiful day it was an hour ago.
I quickly walked through the old town to take some pictures of the old church, some ruins and the local street markets. The beautiful coastline continued and then I spotted a place where I want to sleep in the distance. It was a few cliffs running along the coast. 5km after I noticed them, I found a way through the bushes and saw the perfect on the edge camping spot :). Hectic location but this is one to remember!! No cloud, no winds…. Just the stars and the braking of the waves beneath me. Perfect sleeping weather in mother nature.
The first two hours flew by as the day got warmer and warmer. I passed on massive hotel resort and got the chance to get back on the beach. The sand was a bit loose and it was much harder to walk, but its much better on the beach. And then… The first naked people, the second naked people and then the third. Mmm ok, this might just be the beach with the most naked people I’ve seen in my life. After a few kilometers I decided to take a break, rehydrate, take a nice swim to cool down and to get clean off coarse. As I got out of the water two ladies caught my eye on the right. They were taking photos of each other, butt naked and doing all sorts of porno poses. Was a bit weird as they were just about 40m from me, but that did not stop them.
The sun was now starting to burn the living shit out of me. I took an hour break, but it was now time to get to shade!! Far in the distance of the bay, I saw some umbrellas, and that is where Im heading. It was the hardest walk so far as the sand just got softer and softer, as my feet were sinking in about 5 – 10cm with each step. The umbrellas came closer, but very slowly. When I reached it, I saw it was reserved for the hotel members, but I could not care less… I needed shade right now!! I found a lifeguard hut and sat down… It felt soooo good 🙂 out of the sun and downing my water I had left in my camel bag. I lied down, closed my eyes just for one second and fell asleep.. An hour later I woke up, less people on the beach. I ate a few slices of bread with some polony I had left of the previous day before heading into the sun again.
With some food in my stomach I got off this naked beach and hit the road again. It was not long before I got board of the tar road and decided to do some bundo bashing through the forest, onto the beach, over some cliffs, through more thickly covered bushes. When I reached the road again I was full of spider webs, small spiders over me and nice scratches from the buses and rocks climbing.
At one of my resting points some random guy handed me an ice cold pepsi 🙂 just when I needed it!! Now it was the final stretch towards Primorsko, where I was planning to stay. The town itself did not impress me, so I decided to walk on. Then the beautiful beaches started. I decided to to stop, take a rest and probably camp somewhere on this beach. Beautiful views, beautiful beach and even more beautiful ladies… What can you ask more for 🙂
My blister that started to develop the last two days bust open during the day. I could feel it was a bit more uncomfortable to walk but you get use to it quickly. Near Kiten I found a remote building where I thought I found sleep, but after spending some time on the beach I changed my mind. It was another perfect night and I can just as well sleep on this beautiful beach.
During sunset I played around with my camera and managed to get a few nice shots of the sunset and moon rise. My first plan to sleep on my poncho changed when hundred of mosquitoes decided I was for dinner. So I pitched my tent, got away from the vampires and went to bed. Yet again a quiet and peaceful night!